We wrapped up our stay in Negros Oriental somewhere between slowing down and exploring. That balance is at the heart of our slow travel.

A Weekend in Bacong and Valencia

After several busy days in the hills above town, we declared Saturday a “day off”—our version of one. We caught a tricycle to Bacong, a small coastal settlement between Valencia and Dauin, on the southeastern coast of the island, hoping to see its old Spanish-era church. Unfortunately, it was closed, so we wandered along the seawall, browsed a small arts-and-crafts gallery, and finally drifted into Bacong Treehouse.

This place couldn’t be further from Forest Camp—no cascading pools or lush landscaping—but what it lacked in polish, it made up for in character. Direct beach access, a laid-back local vibe, and a bargain price made it perfect for a lazy afternoon. We rented a hut with a table and benches, then spent hours swimming, reading, and watching weekend life unfold. One group celebrated a birthday with a whole roasted piglet, another belted karaoke at full volume—life moved at its own pace here.

Sunday brought a different pace: everyday Valencia life. We headed to the weekly market: Valery wanted to buy papaya and I hoped for dragon fruit. Those hopes were quickly dashed: plenty of bananas, a few pineapples, some expensive mangoes, and unremarkable citrus. Sadly, no papaya or dragon fruit for us.
This seemed to be a recurring theme throughout our Philippines trip: fruit variety felt oddly limited for a tropical country.

The hot walk home did nothing to lift our spirits, but the sight of our little pool, finally filled with cool water, was a saving grace. A quick, refreshing dip washed away not only the dust from the road but also our market frustration.

Practical Tips:

• Bacong Treehouse entry: 30 PHP/person; hut with table and benches: 200 PHP
• Tricycle from Valencia public market to Bacong: 200 PHP one way for 2 people
• The Treehouse is open until 6 pm;
• No restaurant on site; the best food options are carinderias around the public market.

Attempting Balinsasayao Twin Lakes: Enthusiasm Meets Logistics

Monday was our last day in Negros Oriental, and we decided to tackle a long-planned visit to Balinsasayao Twin Lakes. Reviews were glowing, and while we knew the logistics wouldn’t be simple, we underestimated just how long and tiring the journey would feel.

This is how our Twin Lakes day unfolded, step by step:

• Walk 2 km from our cottage to Valencia market for breakfast
• Take a jeepney — a shared local minibus — from Valencia to Dumaguete
• Walk to Dumaguete Ceres bus terminal
• Take a bus that passes the Twin Lakes junction
• Ride a habal-habal, a motorcycle taxi commonly used in rural areas, up the mountain to Balinsasayao Lake Natural Park
• Reverse all these steps to get back home

By the time we reached the junction, we were already feeling the length of the journey, but the real test began on the habal-habal. No helmets, a steep, winding road, and the views were breathtaking, making the ride both exhilarating and mildly terrifying. At first, the road climbed gently, with ocean and mountain vistas opening up at every turn. As we got closer to the park, the mountains closed in. The road became even steeper, the hairpin turns sharper, and I clung to the bike with renewed determination. Just when I thought I couldn’t hang on any longer, we arrived.

After paying the entrance fees and a short final ride, we reached the observation deck for our first glimpse of Balinsasayao Lake. Partially hidden by trees, it only heightened our anticipation, and we were eager to get closer. As we started the hike down, any thought of rushing quickly disappeared. The paved road leading down was steep and very slippery after the night’s rain, so we moved slowly and carefully along the rocky edge until we finally reached the steps—and then the dock at the water’s edge.

Twin Lakes is undeniably beautiful: two quiet mountain lakes separated by a thin ridge of forest. The larger lake, Balinsasayao, looked like a green jewel set deep in the mountains. The day was overcast, and low clouds draped the peaks, giving the scene a moody, almost secretive feel. The silence was broken only by bird calls and the gentle lapping of water against the shore.

After soaking in the view, we were ready for some activity—but options were limited. Swimming is not permitted in either lake, and kayak rentals were not available at the time. We were given two choices: hire a boat to reach the viewing tower between the two lakes or hire a mandatory guide for the trail to the same spot. Several tour groups were already queued for the boats, so we opted for the trail. As it turned out, there were no guides available, and we were unexpectedly allowed to hike on our own.

At the end of the trail, we reached the narrow strip of land separating the two lakes, topped by a viewing tower. From the upper level, we could see both lakes at once. It was wonderfully quiet up there—most tour groups had already left, and for a brief moment, the tower and the lakes felt entirely ours.

Afterward, we descended to Danao Lake and then followed the same trail back to the dock. The return was slightly easier, as the strong sun had dried parts of the path.

Our verdict: while the lakes themselves are beautiful, the effort required to reach them, combined with the limited activities, made this visit not worth the effort involved.

Practical Tips:

• Jeepney from Valencia market to Dumaguete: 20 PHP per person. Ask the driver to be dropped at Ceres Bus Terminal
• Bus from Dumaguete Ceres Bus Terminal to Twin Lakes road junction: 25 PHP per person
• Habal-habal ride to and from Twin Lakes, including waiting time: 500 PHP per person
• Jeepney from Twin Lakes road junction to Dumaguete: 25 PHP per person
• Balinsasayao Lake entry fee: 100 PHP per person
• Parking fee: 20 PHP per motorcycle
• Boat ride: 250 PHP per hour
• Local guide for the trail: 300 PHP

Dumaguete City: Double Take

On the way back, we stopped in Dumaguete for lunch and to buy ferry tickets to Siquijor. It was our second visit, and it felt just as underwhelming as the first. Perhaps it was the midday heat, but the city came across as hectic, noisy, and punishingly hot.

Rizal Boulevard offered a long seaside walk, but it was baking in the sun, with shade only along a busy, polluted road set back from the water. We briefly considered staying until evening, but after the long Twin Lakes day, we opted to head back early.

During our earlier visit from Dauin, we’d explored more of the city. While walking through the city center, overheated and exhausted, we were grateful to step into the National Museum of the Philippines, which offered a welcome respite from the heat. Small but engaging, it featured colorful displays—including a neon-blue starfish we later encountered while snorkeling.

From there, we walked to the Cathedral and Campanario Tower, only to find both inaccessible. Not ones to admit defeat, we set our sights on the Silliman University Anthropology Museum. Reaching it turned into a small adventure of its own, involving multiple gates, confused guards, and a search for an elusive security office. In the end, we were issued a mysterious “security pass” that required no documents.

Once inside, the museum proved compact but fascinating, with displays of traditional weapons, musical instruments, ritual objects, and even exhibits on local sorcery and curse-breaking practices. A section on the late-19th-century revolution and American colonization added unexpected depth—and became the highlight of our time in Dumaguete.

Farewell, Negros Oriental

Our time in Negros Oriental came to a close after two weeks split between coast and mountains. We experienced both ocean and highlands, hectic city streets and quiet villages—a gentle and revealing introduction to the Philippines.

Looking back, I’d plan things a little differently: more time in Dauin, fewer nights in Valencia, and a skip of the Twin Lakes in favor of waterfalls, hot springs, and hikes closer to town. In the heat, long or complicated outings aren’t always rewarding, but slow seaside walks almost always are.

That said, we truly enjoyed our time in Negros Oriental and would absolutely recommend it as a place to visit. The mix of landscapes, easy day trips, and everyday village life made it easy to settle into. Above all, it was the friendly people—drivers, vendors, and curious locals—who enriched our stay and made it truly memorable. For us, it was a fitting first chapter in the Philippines.

Now it was time to move on to our next stop: Siquijor.