Don’t have time to read the whole post? Jump to the main highlights:
- Casaroro Falls
- The Walk to Forest Camp
- Pulangbato Falls
- Red Rock Hot Spring
- An Evening Walk That Didn’t Go as Planned
From Coastal Dauin to the Valencia Mountains
While staying in Dauin, we didn’t see many foreigners except those staying at the dive resorts to get certified. We did meet a Canadian expat during one of our beach walks. When he heard it was our first trip to the Philippines, he was genuinely surprised that we had chosen Dauin as our starting point. “I traveled around the Philippines for ten years before I found the perfect place to live — Dauin,” he told us. “And you came here on your very first visit!”
But our stay in this “perfect place” eventually came to an end, and we hired a tricycle to move to Valencia, a small town in the mountains above Dumaguete City. Our cottage, Chez Melanie, was located in Liptong, a small barangay just two kilometers outside Valencia, still on Negros Oriental.
We stayed in one of the twin cottages on the property, which featured a small kitchen with an eating area, a spacious bedroom, and a large bathroom. Outside, there was a small backyard with a plunge pool. Our stay for six nights cost around 206 CAD.
I thought life in Dauin was rural, with roosters calling all day long. In Liptong, we heard roosters too — but also Brahman cattle (at first we thought they were buffalo) and the occasional pig. A whole new level of countryside.
First Afternoon in Valencia
After settling in and walking to town, we realized we were quite late for lunch. Thankfully, Filipino markets always have something ready for weary travellers.
We settled for a simple but filling meal of eggs, green beans, fish soup, and munggo bean stew — all for 215 pesos (about 5.12 CAD) for both of us.
After eating, we wandered around the central park. Valencia felt immediately different from Dauin — slightly cooler air, more greenery, more expats, and instead of the slow breath of the ocean you’re surrounded by cloud-covered mountains.
Across from the local college we watched a young couple dancing — waltz and quickstep — right there in the open. Since we practiced ballroom dancing, it felt like an unexpected treat meant just for us.
We then visited the small private Cata-al World War II Museum, run by a local man determined to keep history alive.
The place is packed with helmets, letters, and old photos, each with its own backstory.
He told us about the Japanese occupation of the Philippines and how the last Japanese forces on Negros retreated into the mountains around Mount Talinis.
He also shared the remarkable story of Hiroo Onoda — the most famous of Japan’s long-term holdouts — who hid on Lubang Island for nearly thirty years after the war, convinced that all announcements of Japan’s surrender were enemy propaganda. Onoda finally emerged only when his former commander flew in from Japan to relieve him of duty.
Daily Walks and Life in Liptong
The cool mornings in Valencia were perfect for walking to the market for breakfast, passing banana orchards and open fields with tethered cows. The calves were especially cute, with long floppy ears and wrinkled skin on their little necks.
The return walk in the afternoon was another story: hot, humid, and sticky — but we stubbornly kept walking anyway. Our cottage’s plunge pool was empty due to water shortages, common in rural Philippines. Every time we trudged home in the heat, I dreamt about a refreshing dip but had to settle for a shower instead.
Little Surprises and Local Flavours
Our walks to and from Valencia also came with unexpected moments. One morning, we found ourselves in the middle of a funeral procession outside the local cemetery as cars, motorbikes, and several jeepneys squeezed toward the gate. On another day, we passed a roadside stall where a man was selling fresh “baby tuna” to the locals.
What we loved most, however, were the greetings. Locals always acknowledged us with a smile or a friendly nod. The children were especially enthusiastic — they would stop playing and call out “good afternoon” or “good evening,” delighted just to practice a bit of English. Their cheerful calls became one of the highlights of our daily walks.
Between these lively encounters and little discoveries along the way, we got to taste some new Negros Oriental flavours specific to Valencia. We found good coffee at the market — a rare treat.
We tried several small eateries around the plaza, though nothing matched our favorite from Dauin, Rebecca’s Place.
However, Valencia had a few dishes new to us to try, like seaweed salads. One seaweed in particular looked like clusters of tiny green berries that burst with salty water when you bite them. The fish soup with ginger was also tasty, and we often ate it for breakfast — something we’d never do at home.
Casaroro Falls
The next day we set out for Casaroro Falls, one of the main attractions around Valencia. We decided to go on a weekday and early to avoid crowds at this popular spot. At first we balked at the price cited by a tricycle driver and Valery was eager to walk there as it was only 6 km from the town. However, I put my foot down when we learned that these 6 km are all uphill. In the end we decided on a compromise: take a tricycle up to the falls and then walk down to town on our own.
At the falls we paid required fees and were assigned a guide. The route starts with 350 steep steps down to the river, shaded by giant trees.
After the descent, the trail crosses the water four times so our water shoes came in handy. It was overcast and cool by the river. According to our guide, Valeriano, it is never hot down here. We had fun on this walk with river crossing being the most adventurous part, when you feel strength on the current threatening to sweep you off your feet as you scramble over wet slippery rocks.
The falls themselves are tall — about 100 feet — and powerful. You can sense the power of the falling water as you feel its mist on your face.
Because it was overcast and chilly, we skipped swimming in the pool. Climbing back up all those 350 stairs was another story. By the time I reached the top, I wished the waterfall pool was there and not the bottom — life is so unfair!
We were lucky to have the place almost entirely to ourselves, probably because we visited on a Thursday morning. It would be a very different experience if there were a lot of people on the trail and by the waterfall.
Practical tip:
- Tricycle price: 200 peso (4.75 CAD) per person each way. Standard fare in Valencia for many nearby attractions.
- Entrance fee: 20 peso per person (0.48 CAD).
- Mandatory guide: 250 peso (6.39 CAD).
- Come early in the morning to avoid crowds.
- Bring water shoes or sturdy sandals for safely crossing the slippery river rocks. If you plan to swim, don’t forget your swimsuit.
The Walk to Forest Camp
From the falls, we walked the four kilometers down to Forest Camp, a riverside resort right on our way back to Valencia, enjoying the cool air and the chance to see a bit of local life. Our guide soon caught up with us — he was walking home for lunch — so we continued chatting as we went.
We asked him why so many roosters were missing their crests. He explained that these are cockfighting roosters, part of a very popular Sunday tradition in Valencia and much of Negros.
Suddenly it made sense why we heard roosters all day long and why so many of them stand in almost every yard, each tied to a short leash so they don’t fight each other.
Farther along we noticed a tree with strange red fruit. A woman stepped out of her house and told us they were makopa (rose apples), then asked if we wanted to try some. Her daughter used a long stick to knock them down from the tall tree.
The fruit was tender, slightly sour, and refreshing — nothing like apples except for the shape.
She refused payment and even brought out a little dish of salt, saying that people here often eat makopa this way. However, we prefered them without salt.
We skipped the nearby “Original Casaroro Falls,” which several guides promote, after Valeriano told us it wasn’t as tall or interesting.
We passed a small vegetable stall along the road. I was surprised to see a cut banana flower, and learned it’s used in Filipino cooking. The vendor was also selling coconut vinegar with chilies and spices — a local alternative to apple cider vinegar.
Eventually we reached Forest Camp, a lovely riverside resort with cascading pools of natural cold water.
We spent a couple of hours swimming, wandering around, and relaxing. On a weekday it wasn’t crowded, which made it even nicer.
Lunch at the restaurant was fine but nothing memorable; many locals brought their own food and used the picnic tables scattered around the garden.
Practical tip:
- Entry fee: 200 pesos per person.
- Can get crowded on weekends; visit on weekdays for a quieter experience.
Pulangbato Falls
The following day, still tired from our long walk, we hired a tricycle for a round-trip to Pulangbato Falls and Red Rock Hot Spring, well-known attractions much farther from Valencia.
Practical tip:
- Tricycle terminal near Valencia market; set prices for popular sights.
- Trip cost: 800 pesos (18.96 CAD) for two people for about four hours, including several stops.
Pulangbato Falls sits inside a small resort. It’s a pleasant waterfall with a short trail and a hanging bridge.
A smaller waterfall feeds the resort’s swimming pool, which was only partially filled when we arrived. We skipped swimming and ordered coffee instead.
While sitting there, we met Amy and Joel, fellow travelers from the U.S. visiting the Philippines for the first time. Their travel pace was faster than ours, but we shared similar interests — local life, culture, and slow moments rather than collecting sights.
Red Rock Hot Spring
Just a kilometer down the road is Red Rock Hot Spring, which we absolutely loved.
There are two small cascading pools filled with warm, mineral-rich water — sulfur, magnesium, lithium, and others. We spent an hour soaking in the lower pool, which we had entirely to ourselves. The warm water felt amazing on our tired muscles, and we even enjoyed a natural “hydro massage” under the water spout.
Practical tip:
- Pulangbato resort: 100 pesos per person (2.38 CAD), coffee 70 pesos (1.70 CAD).
- Red Rock Hot Spring: 100 pesos per person.
- Best visited on weekday mornings for privacy.
When we returned to our driver, he surprised us with two hot cobs of corn he had bought for us. On the way back to Valencia, we also stopped at the sulphur vents, where dozens of steam columns rose from the ground — at first we thought they were fires until we got closer.
An Evening Walk That Didn’t Go as Planned
Feeling refreshed, we decided to walk to Green Dining, a restaurant we found on Google about 30 minutes from our cottage in a small mountain barangay near Valencia. With the sun going down, the walk was pleasant, and we drew curious stares from villagers — not many tourists wander around here on foot.
When we finally reached the sign, with Mount Talinis glowing behind it, our hopes were crushed. A yard dog on a chain lunged toward me, and a woman came out to explain the restaurant had been closed for more than a year.
Hungry and disappointed, we turned back, but Valery decided to take a “shortcut.” Soon we found ourselves on a narrow trail cutting through fields and backyards. Children watched us from doorways; lazy dogs barely lifted their heads.
At one point of the trail we reached an old truck whose driver was trying to coax it back to life. When the truck lurched forward, we followed — until it stalled again in a tight spot. After a few failed attempts to restart it, the driver made a phone call, and Valery decided we shouldn’t wait. We slipped around the truck through the undergrowth and eventually found the road again. Just as we reached it, the truck clattered past us, suddenly revived. At least he wasn’t stuck in the jungle for the night.
We returned home still hungry, but luckily we had papaya, peanuts, and a stash of Rebecca’s chocolate — a simple but very welcome dinner. Dinner fiasco aside, our first days in Valencia had already given us waterfalls, hot springs, memorable walks, and encounters with locals. We went to bed looking forward to what the next day would bring.
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Excellent post.
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