Living in Xela, I was surrounded by mountains on all sides. No matter where I went in the city, they were always there. So, of course, exploring the mountains became a big part of my stay.
Los Vahos: A Volcanic Sauna
On my first weekend in Xela, our school organized a trip to Los Vahos, a natural sauna heated by steam and vapours from the nearby volcano. It is located in the mountains near Cerro Quemado, and getting there was an experience in itself.
The walk from the school took us about an hour and ten minutes, mostly uphill. The first part followed the same steep road we had taken a few days earlier to visit the after-school project. I was still adjusting to the altitude of Xela, so this climb was very demanding for me. Eventually, the road became less steep, although it continued climbing.
As we gained elevation, the view of Xela gradually receded below us.
The urban landscape gave way to fields of wheat and oats, vegetable gardens with broccoli and cabbage, and, of course, corn.
We passed a large, seemingly deserted old house with beautiful views of the valley.
Further along, eucalyptus trees began lining the road, filling the air with their distinctive, pungent smell.
Finally, we reached Los Vahos.
It was a very small place, with a steam room that could accommodate only three or four people at a time.
We took turns going inside, partly because of the limited space and partly because the steam was so hot that staying for more than five to ten minutes was difficult.
The routine was simple: after a few minutes in the steam room, we stepped out for a cold shower, drank some water and waited until we had cooled down before going back in. Inside, thick clouds of steam billowed from the back of the room, quickly obscuring everything. It was difficult to see where exactly the steam was coming from, but there was no doubt about its intensity. I really enjoyed the contrast between the intense heat of the steam and the cold water.
The entrance fee was GTQ 25 per person for an hour, which was more than enough for us. Fortunately, there were no other visitors that day, so the small size of the place wasn’t a problem. I imagine it could get quite crowded when more people come.
Las Fuentes Georginas: Hot Springs in the Mountains
Another school outing took us to Las Fuentes Georginas, a natural hot spring park tucked into the mountains near Zunil. We arrived in the afternoon after school. Clouds were hanging over the surrounding rainforest, giving the place a rather atmospheric feel.
Our school had arranged transportation, which turned out to be very fortunate. Getting to Las Fuentes Georginas from Xela by public transport isn’t straightforward, especially when it comes to getting back.
From the parking area, we made our way down towards the pools.
We headed straight to the main pool in the lower part of the park, which had the hottest water.
There was an additional charge to use this pool, but we thought it was worth it.
The upper pools were busier, while this area was much quieter.
We spent a couple of relaxing hours soaking in the hot water and enjoying the surrounding rainforest.
We stayed until closing time, when we suddenly had some unexpected visitors. A group of coatis (known locally as pizotes) appeared nearby.
One of them came right up to the edge of the pool, almost as if it were telling us that our time was up and it was time to leave the place to them!
On our way back to Xela, we had another unexpected encounter: this time, with distant Santa María volcano, looking quite mysterious under its cloud cover.
Laguna Chicabal: A Sacred Lake in the Clouds
Of all our school outings, the one I looked forward to most was the trip to Laguna Chicabal, a crater lake inside the caldera of the extinct Chicabal volcano.
Kris, our school coordinator, drove us there in his large SUV, so we missed the usual local transport adventure. The last part of the drive, however, turned out to be quite a ride. The road became increasingly narrow, and at one point we had to wait for five oncoming cars to pass before we could continue. Beyond that, the road turned rough. Most visitors make this final stretch in hired toritos — pickup trucks that wait for passengers where the paved road ends.
After paying the entrance fee, we started walking uphill towards the mirador, or viewpoint. The climb took us more than half an hour. Several toritos passed us along the way, with drivers offering us a ride, but we preferred to walk. By the time we reached the viewpoint, more clouds had rolled in, and there wasn’t much to see.
From there, we descended towards the lake on what seemed like an endless flight of steep stairs. I didn’t envy the people climbing in the opposite direction—it looked like hard work!
But Laguna Chicabal is much more than a beautiful mountain lake. It is a sacred place for Maya communities, who believe that the lake connects the underworld and the sky. Swimming and boating are not permitted, and the lake remains an important place for traditional ceremonies and offerings.
Down by the water, we saw several Maya families having picnics along the shore. We didn’t witness any ceremonies, but we did notice many flower offerings in the lake. Some were simple bunches of flowers; others were arranged in elaborate little altars.
We walked along a trail circling the lake while Kris told us more about its significance in Maya culture. He explained that Guatemala has about 22 Maya ethnic groups, each with a distinctive language, so people from different Maya communities may not understand one another.
Along the trail, he pointed out several Maya altars, as well as places where Catholic crosses stood alongside traditional Maya elements. The two religions have blended over the past 500 years, and this coexistence was visible around the lake.
As we walked around the lake, the clouds kept coming and going. One moment the lake was completely visible; a few minutes later, a cloud would descend onto the water, hiding the opposite shore. This added to the mysterious feel of the place. Between its natural beauty and its spiritual significance, Laguna Chicabal was one of the most unusual places we visited around Xela.
Cerro La Muela: A Rocky Mountain Climb
Another weekend, our school hike took us to Cerro La Muela, a jagged rock formation on the slopes of Almolonga volcano.
As Kris drove us in his SUV towards the trailhead, it started raining, which really dampened our spirits. Nobody likes hiking in the mountains when it’s raining!
Thankfully, the rain stopped just as we started along the road leading to the trailhead, although the sky was still cloudy.
The road led us past a soccer field to a small stone building. It looked abandoned but there were flowers in front of it and candles inside. Kris explained that it was another Maya ceremonial site.
A container holding flowers had been overturned, and one of the students tried to put it back. Kris stopped him and explained that offerings should never be touched. In Maya tradition, people can ask for both good and bad things, and since you never know what an offering is meant for, touching it could mean taking its negative energy upon yourself. It was an interesting reminder that these places are not simply historical or cultural sites, but still have deep spiritual meaning for local people.
The most interesting discovery was that the building was actually a vapor bath, similar to the one we had visited at Los Vahos, although this one seemed to have been abandoned. Kris opened the door to one of the rooms, and it was filled with hot, moist volcanic steam. I wondered whether the presence of this natural steam, and the volcanic power behind it, was part of what made the place sacred to the Maya.
From the building, the trail climbed towards the bare rocks above. The hike wasn’t very long, but there was enough scrambling over rocks to make it challenging and interesting.
As we climbed, the sun began to break through the clouds, which started shifting, opening up different views of the valley below.
The final part of the trail involved some serious scrambling, but eventually we reached the top of Cerro La Muela, with Xela visible far below and the hot sun on our faces.
We spent some time resting on the rocks, enjoying the sunshine, the quiet and the clean mountain air, feeling on top of the world.
Santiaguito: Hiking to an Active Volcano
I wanted to join a hiking tour to the Santiaguito viewpoint organized by Quetzaltrekkers, but there weren’t enough people for the tour to go ahead. Instead of accepting defeat, two other girls from our school and I decided to hike there independently. It turned out to be quite easy, especially with the help of AllTrails and Organic Maps on my phone.
The most difficult part was getting up at 5 a.m. for the hike. It is recommended to start early, as clouds often obscure the view after 11 a.m. We took an Uber from Xela to nearby Llanos del Pinal (GTQ 42), then walked through the village until we found the trailhead and started hiking.
The weather was perfect. Santa María volcano had some clouds around it, but its summit was clear. We hiked for about two hours, climbing steadily at first before reaching a more level section. Overall, it wasn’t particularly strenuous.
Just before the viewpoint, we encountered a black bull standing on the narrow trail, calmly looking at us, with no way to go around him until, after some gentle cajoling, he finally moved away.
Soon after we reached the viewpoint. Below us was Santiaguito, an active lava dome with slopes completely devoid of plant life. It looked quite desolate compared with the surrounding forested mountains.
Another group was already at the viewpoint, and more people arrived while we were having breakfast with a view of the volcano.
Santiaguito had a column of white steam hanging above it, with thinner tendrils rising from several fumaroles on its slopes.
We watched for about half an hour, and then our patience was rewarded: Santiaguito erupted, sending a huge column of dark steam and ash high into the sky.
After this stellar performance, we were ready to head back. The trail was pleasant, mostly downhill and shaded. There was a sharp contrast between its upper and lower sections. Higher up, moisture covered the plants, and drops of water hung from the leaves like little crystals. Further down, the trail was dry. There had been a drought that summer, with almost no rain during the rainy season.
As we descended towards the village, we passed many vegetable plots, mostly planted with cabbage, and saw more local cows.
We decided to take a “chicken bus” back to Xela, which completed our adventure for the day. As we walked back through the centre of Xela, we heard thunder. The heavy rain started just as I reached my homestay. I was very happy that we had decided to start the hike early and hadn’t been caught in a torrential downpour in the mountains.
Leaving Xela
In what seemed like a blink of an eye, my four weeks in Xela came to an end. I came here to study Spanish, and my Spanish did improve, but I was leaving with so much more. The city had become as familiar as a friend. I learned to appreciate its rough charm and gritty character, and most of all, the kindness of its people.
I experienced everyday life in Xela, as well as the city celebrating with all its energy. I learned about the Maya people, their culture and beliefs. I hiked in the mountains, soaked in the hot springs and marvelled at the sacred lake on the top of the volcano.
As my bus carried me away from Xela towards my next destination, I silently said goodbye and thank you to the city that had introduced me to Guatemala.
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I love your writing and photos. Thank you for sharing your adventures with your readers and letting us experience the places you visit through your eyes.
Thank you, Tim. I am glad you find this interesting.