After our first long hike to Kho Muong, we were curious to see another side of Pu Luong—one that many travelers pass through: the villages around Ban Don.
Journey to Ban Don Village
A Change of Plans
The next day, we asked our host to prepare a take-away lunch for us and give us a ride to Ban Don village, about 5 km down the road from our homestay. Unfortunately, the timing didn’t work out—it was taking too long—so we decided to risk another lunch in the village and walk instead.
Walking along the road was better than we had feared. Traffic was very light, and the overcast sky kept the temperature comfortable. Low clouds covered the distant mountains, softening the views, but there was still plenty to admire as we walked past rice terraces stretching down the hillsides.
A Village Between Tourists and Traditions
When we reached Ban Don and began our descent, we stopped for a coffee in one of the cafés, its terrace open to the rice fields below.
Even without clear mountain views, it was a pleasant pause—quiet, unhurried, and a chance to take in the landscape before continuing on.
As we walked further into the village and toward the trail, it quickly became clear that Ban Don is the main tourist hub in Pu Luong. There were more homestays and cafés here than anywhere else we had seen in the area. We would have had no problem finding lunch, but it was still morning, and our focus was on the trail ahead.
At the same time, traditional Black Thai stilt houses stood alongside them, and the surrounding rice fields were carefully tended. Despite the presence of visitors, the village still felt authentic, with everyday life continuing largely unchanged.
Hiking the Ban Don Loop
Here’s the route we followed, starting from Ban Don down the road to Ban Ưi and Ban Lan villages, with our return via the upper trail to the homestay.
Click the map to view full size.
Tourists, Villagers, and Views
We set off along a trail from Ban Don to Ban Ưi and Ban Lan villages. Soon, the more touristy side of Pu Luong became apparent. Small groups of hikers with local guides passed by, followed shortly by a busload of tourists.
At one point, we reached an area where several cafés and small souvenir shops were set up to take advantage of sweeping views over the rice terraces. Groups of tourists gathered there, taking photos, browsing stalls, and enjoying the scenery from carefully placed viewpoints. Just beyond them, locals continued their work in the fields, quietly tending the terraces as they must have done every day. The contrast was striking but not jarring—both seemed to coexist without interfering with each other.
From there, the trail split. A narrow road lined with red flags led down through the rice fields before climbing back up, while a wider road continued along the top of the terraces.
We shared part of this stretch with the occasional tourist bus, which was not particularly pleasant, but thankfully there were not many.
These buses could only go partway and had to park, leaving visitors to walk the rest of the way down—and later back up—on the same steep road.
The trail itself was beautiful. At first, it gently twisted through the terraces, then began a steep descent toward the valley below.
About halfway down, we stopped at a viewpoint with a simple bench—perfect for catching our breath and taking in the view.
From there, we could see Ban Ưi and Ban Lan villages below: clusters of houses with colorful roofs set among the terraces, with a river winding farther down the valley.
A Taste of Village Life
As we reached the villages, the atmosphere shifted again. Ban Ưi and Ban Lan felt much more rustic than Ban Don, with simpler houses and very little infrastructure.
Our plan was to have lunch here and then hike back to the homestay, but once again, our meal turned into a familiar challenge. The first place we tried had only snacks, so we bought some local bananas and continued searching. After some creative communication, we found a tiny café where we could eat.
Sitting there and waiting for our food, we had time to observe village life. Flooded rice paddies, now that the harvest was over, were being used as fish ponds.
Ducks wandered everywhere, moving noisily between the water and the fields. In some places, terraces had been repurposed to grow vegetables.
Eating low-carb in Vietnam is not easy—“no rice, no noodles, no bread” tends to confuse people—but this time we managed. We each got three boiled eggs, along with a small plate of pomelo and starfruit. Together with the bananas, it made a much more substantial meal than the day before.
We also ordered coconut coffee without sugar, not realizing that it would be served iced rather than hot. It didn’t matter—it was delicious and gave us enough energy for the hike back.
Chasing the Views
Our plan was to return to our homestay via a trail toward Kho Muong. We first walked through rice paddies and Ban Ưi village, observing local life. Then we faced two options: follow the road along the river, or take an upper trail across the hill for views of the river valley and terraces. We chose the upper trail, expecting it to offer more.
At first, it delivered—the views opened up just as we had hoped.
But they did not last. The trail soon dived into the forest, and for a while, everything disappeared behind dense greenery.
We continued along the narrow path with no views and little sense of where we were in relation to the valley below.
Expecting Views, Finding Something Else
Eventually, we emerged on the other side of the ridge, and the landscape changed completely. There were no river views or rice terraces here—just an unbroken blanket of forest stretching across the valley, with layer after layer of forested mountains rising in the distance.
It was a different kind of view, quieter and more uniform, without the details for the eye to linger on. After the terraces, it felt a little underwhelming.
Not long after, we met a local guiding a small herd of cows along the trail. We heard them before we saw them—the steady clanging of neck bells echoing through the hills—until they appeared around the bend.
It was one of those small, unexpected moments that make a hike memorable.
As we made our way back toward familiar paths, we ran into an unexpected delay.
The narrow village road we had walked the day before was being repaired, and a bulldozer completely blocked the way.
Even on foot, there was no way around it, so we waited with a group of locals on motorcycles until the machine finally moved aside and let us pass.
Sunrise Over Pu Luong
The next morning, Valery woke me and asked if I wanted to see the sunrise. Did I want to? Was he kidding? This was the first real sunrise since we came to Vietnam two weeks ago, so there was no way I was missing it.
Half-asleep, I hurried up the hill past the last hut of our homestay, turned around, and gasped.
Blue mountain ridges rose from a sea of mist in layers as far as the eye could see, like giant beasts swimming with only humped backs above the foggy water. The sun had just cleared the mountains, and light sparkled on the rice terraces below like mirrors.
It was heartbreakingly beautiful—every bit of sleep evaporated, and I stood spellbound, trying to commit this moment to memory.
What a beautiful parting gift on our last day in Pu Luong!
Last Walk Through the Rice Terraces
Our bus wasn’t until after lunch, so we decided to take one last walk in the morning. We had already admired the rice terraces from above and below, but now it was time to step into them.
Passing tiny hamlets, we saw Black Thai families tending their rice fields and slices of cassava root drying on wooden trays in the sun. From there, we descended and began weaving along the terraces.
Several times we crossed small streams feeding the paddies, hopping across on stepping stones.
The day was perfect—blue sky overhead, white clouds mirrored in the flooded paddies below.
For the first time, the surrounding mountains were clearly visible, their deep green folds draping the landscape like velvet around the glistening terraces. Every turn offered a new view, and every path felt like a quiet discovery.
At one point, we lost our way among the narrow paths, winding terraces, and small streams, and had to backtrack to find the correct route.
The detour led us through another small hamlet, where we came across a group of adorable black piglets.
Eventually, we found our way back to the homestay, carrying the memory of Pu Luong’s tranquil beauty with us for the journey ahead.
Departure and Reflections
We left for Hanoi after one last lunch at Cuisine Garden, grateful for the decision to take this side trip. After the hectic urbanity of Hanoi, Pu Luong felt calm and rustic—a refreshing change of scene.
Witnessing real, traditional villages where Black Thai people still live and work was humbling. Seeing the manual labor behind the rice terraces made me appreciate every bowl of rice even more.
Our time in Pu Luong came to an end, but northern Vietnam still had more to show us. After finishing our stay in Hanoi, we made our way to Ninh Binh, a region of dramatic limestone karsts and winding rivers just beyond the hills we had wandered.
Practical Tips for Pu Luong:
- When to Go
December is low season, with cooler weather and fewer visitors—perfect for hiking. The rice has already been harvested, and the terraces are flooded, so you won’t see the classic green or golden fields. However, the flooded paddies create reflective surfaces, offering a unique perspective of Pu Luong.- Weather / Clothing Tips
December mornings and evenings are cool, while daytime can get quite warm, so dressing in layers is best. A light raincoat is useful on wet days, and running shoes with good traction are ideal for mountain trails.- Getting There
The easiest way is to arrange a transfer through your hotel or homestay. A one-way trip cost 250,000 VND per person and took over four hours.- Food & Snacks
Most homestays have restaurants, and breakfast is usually included in the nightly rate. Lunch options in small villages can be very limited, and local stores often have a poor selection, so it’s a good idea to bring snacks and fruit for the day.- Cash
Bring enough cash, as there are no ATMs in Pu Luong villages.- Trekking & Tours
We hiked independently using the AllTrails and Organic Maps apps. Guided tours—private or group—can also be arranged through your homestay, or you can check other accommodations in the area for options.- Trail Conditions
Hiking in Pu Luong takes you along trails and rural roads, some of which are shared with motorcycles and occasional buses. Be prepared for steep inclines—after all, these are mountains!- Phone Signal
Mobile signal can be spotty in some areas, so offline maps like the Organic Maps app are very helpful for navigation.- Timing for Highlights
If you’re lucky enough to have a clear morning, the sunrises are spectacular—but you’ll need to be up early, ideally before 6 a.m., to catch them.
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