Choosing Our Own Path
Staying four weeks in Hanoi gave us the chance not only to soak in the city’s rhythms and daily life, but also to explore beyond the capital. Ha Long Bay immediately came to mind — iconic for its emerald waters and towering karsts — yet we knew it could be overcrowded. Instead, we chose a quieter alternative: Cat Ba Island and Lan Ha Bay.
Planning the trip was an adventure in itself. We first considered multi-day cruises, highly recommended but costly — nearly 900 CAD for two — and packed with activities we weren’t particularly interested in. Instead, we tried a DIY approach, and it turned out to be easier than we expected. Transfers by bus and boat are the same as for cruise customers, accommodation was excellent and affordable, and our homestay helped arrange a private boat tour. Traveling independently gave us control over our days while letting us immerse ourselves in local life.
Arrival in Cái Bèo
We stayed three nights in Cái Bèo, a quiet spot away from the touristy center of Cat Ba town, and booked our return trip on Cat Ba Express. Our journey began bright and early at 7:30 a.m. with a bus from Hanoi. Despite switching vehicles three times — first the bus to Haiphong, then a high-speed boat to the island, and finally another bus to Cat Ba town — the trip went surprisingly smoothly.
Tran’s House, our homestay, turned out to be a wonderful find. We had a spacious room on the third floor with A/C and a large bathroom. Downstairs, a small restaurant served free breakfast each morning. All this comfort and convenience came at just 44 CAD for three nights — far better than we expected for the price.
First Impressions of Cat Ba Island
After settling in, we set out in search of lunch and soon found a small local spot called Cơm Việt Mai Liễu.
It worked much like a Vietnamese cafeteria: a table lined with prepared dishes where you simply point to what you want.
For travelers who don’t speak Vietnamese, it’s the perfect system.
Feeling adventurous, I even tried fried chrysalis. The flavor was fine, but the texture inside was not for me.
Valery, never an adventurous eater, refused to even consider it.
Everything else was delicious, though, and incredibly cheap — lunch for the two of us came to 145,000 VND (less than 8 CAD).
After lunch we wandered down the road to Bến Bèo, Cat Ba’s main harbor. From there we could already glimpse the world we had come to see: boats drifting between towering karst islands through the emerald water of Lan Ha Bay.
Curious, we kept walking through a maze of small hotels and homestays until the road ended. In the distance we could make out Cái Bèo, one of Vietnam’s oldest floating fishing villages, along with traditional fishing boats woven from bamboo — a glimpse of a way of life that has existed in these waters for generations.
Inspired by the views, we tried to find a trail up the nearby cliffs.
Our first attempt ended abruptly at a small house guarded by a chorus of barking dogs.
The second led us up a set of half-broken stairs — only to end in what looked like a small cemetery.
Later we learned it was used for fishermen whose bodies had washed ashore after drowning at sea.
Our final attempt brought us to a road marked No Trespassing, and at that point we decided the cliffs were determined to keep their secrets.
A Memorable Dinner at Tam Vegetarian
Our final discovery of the day was a charming little restaurant called Tam Vegetarian.
It sat up a steep street off the main road and was easy to miss.
As soon as we stepped through the gate we knew we had found something special.
A large fish pond with a small bridge and garden framed a beautiful wooden house with a spacious terrace. A young hostess welcomed us and told us the restaurant had opened only a few months earlier. She had built the house with her husband and her mother, and now the two women cooked for their guests.
From our table on the terrace we could see straight into the open kitchen inside the house where they were preparing the food. It felt less like sitting in a restaurant and more like being invited into someone’s home.
The dishes were delicious and beautifully presented, and she even adjusted the set menu to accommodate my dietary restrictions.
The menu was very small — just two complete set dinners each evening — but it changed daily, and each offered several courses.
The price was very reasonable too: 320,000 VND for two (about 17 CAD).
It was the perfect way to end our first day on Cat Ba — and easily one of the highlights of our stay.
A Day on Lan Ha Bay
Unexpected Adventure
We arranged a boat tour for the day through our homestay. We could have joined a group, but we opted for a private boat — and it turned out to be full of surprises.
The first surprise came at pickup: instead of a car, our guide arrived on a motorbike. Both of us clung on as he roared down the steep road, weaving past houses and sharp bends, feeling the thrill of this unconventional start.
Rather than heading toward Bến Bèo harbor, he turned right onto the restricted road we had hesitated to explore the day before. After a short ride he led us up to a communication tower for a viewpoint, giving us panoramic views of Lan Ha Bay.
Then came the steep descent.
Eventually, after a bit of rock scrambling, we arrived at a tiny beach where his wife — our captain for the day — was waiting with our boat.
The second surprise awaited us there. We had imagined a small, conventional motorboat — our host had even shown us a photo when we booked.
Instead, we found a woven fisherman’s boat with an engine, just like those we had seen in the bay the day before.
The third surprise was how we had to board: not from a dock, but by jumping from the rocks into the swaying boat below. Adventure indeed!
Floating Oyster Rafts & Local Life
The weather was overcast, with patches of rain and fog, giving the bay a moody, mystical beauty — like an oriental painting of mountains emerging from the mist. Traveling in a small boat rather than a large tour group allowed us plenty of solitude, sharing the bay mostly with local fishing boats.
Our captain first took us to see floating oyster rafts, with ropes and baskets hanging in the water from wooden frames.
Later, we met a boat of visitors from Hanoi who showed us their catch and even gave Valery a chance to try fishing. Luck wasn’t on his side, but we were treated to freshly boiled clams with lemongrass and a dollop of hot sauce — unexpectedly delicious.
A Sacred Stop
After a few hours on the water, we asked our captain for a toilet break — a mundane need that turned into an unexpected discovery. She brought us to a small island that had a toilet but also a locked shrine dedicated to a local goddess.
It is a sacred place for fishermen, who come on the 1st and 15th days of the lunar month to light incense on her altar.
Though the shrine itself was locked, our captain pointed it out and explained its significance.
What stayed with us most, however, was the atmosphere of the island itself. Surrounded by towering karst cliffs and the quiet waters of the bay, the place felt incredibly calm — the silence almost palpable. There was a sense of stillness there that made the island feel quietly sacred, even without stepping inside the shrine.
Oyster Farm Visit
Our next stop was an oyster farm tucked into a quiet inlet between towering karst cliffs, their reflections shimmering in the jade-green water. Unlike the oyster rafts we had seen earlier in the bay, this was a full working farm where oysters were grown, harvested, and processed.
The farm was managed by a local family who lived there in a tiny house.
They harvested oysters, opened the shells, and collected the meat into tubs that were sold to restaurants in Ha Long, Cat Ba, and even Hanoi.
Fish were also raised here in natural net pens formed by the cliffs and the sea, blending seamlessly into the bay’s scenery.
As we wandered around, we marveled at how the family had adapted to the landscape, using the sheltered inlet and surrounding waters to make their living.
Lunch and Kayaking
Our final stop before heading back was a floating restaurant.
As we docked, we noticed a large tour boat nearby, but our captain’s timing was impeccable — all the tourists had just left for a kayak paddle, leaving the restaurant almost empty and quiet.
Lunch was spread out on the terrace: seafood, pork with vegetables, braised potatoes and carrots, mini spring rolls, fried tofu, omelet, and half a dragon fruit for dessert.
There was so much food that we couldn’t finish it all.
Once the other tourists returned, we had the bay to ourselves again for kayaking.
Gliding through jade-green waters, we passed more floating fishermen’s boats with their owners at work.
As we rounded cliffs, the islands seemed endless — I almost panicked at the thought of being lost in this maze — until our restaurant finally came into view. Honestly, I was ready to cry “Land!” like sailors lost at sea.
Life on the Water
As we made our way back toward the harbor, rain began to fall, but Lan Ha Bay continued to surprise us.
We passed fishermen using a cliff overhang as a giant umbrella, and another paddling with his feet while holding a rod in his hands.
Life on the water never seemed dull.
Just before reaching the harbor we passed Cái Bèo floating fishing village, but the rain was coming down hard so we didn’t stop.
We ended the day with another dinner at Tam Vegetarian, which was just as delightful as the first night — we were greeted as old friends.
Our day on Lan Ha Bay had already given us an unforgettable glimpse of life on the water — from floating oyster farms to quiet fishing villages tucked among the karsts. But Cat Ba still had more to offer. Next, we would venture inland, exploring forests and limestone hills that are just as captivating as the bay itself.
Practical Tips for a DIY Trip to Cat Ba and Lan Ha Bay
- Transport: We traveled to Cat Ba Island with Cat Ba Express. You can book directly on their website. A return trip from Hanoi to Cat Ba costs 26 USD per person.
- Where to stay: Cat Ba town is busier and more touristy, with plenty of restaurants and shops. Cái Bèo is quieter and more local, yet still offers good dining options. It’s also close to Bến Bèo, the main departure point for Lan Ha Bay boat tours.
- Booking boat tours: The easiest way is through your accommodation on arrival. We took a private, intimate Lan Ha Bay boat tour for 1,600,000 VND for two. Group tours cost around 500,000–600,000 VND per person.
- Cash matters: Bring enough cash, as ATMs can be unreliable on the island. Most boat tours and local restaurants prefer cash payment.
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