Even after several days exploring Hanoi’s sites, we found there was still more to uncover in the city’s layers of history:

A small temple floating on a lake.

A museum filled with untold women’s stories.

A citadel that once guarded emperors.

In our last days in the city, we visited these sites — each revealing a different layer of Vietnam’s identity.

Ngoc Son Temple: Legends on Hoàn Kiếm Lake

We had been in Hanoi for over three weeks and still hadn’t visited Ngoc Son Temple, even though we had walked around Hoàn Kiếm Lake many times. Why? Because every time we passed it, we saw crowds of people going in and out — not quite the experience we were looking for.

With only a few days left before our departure, we finally decided to give it a try and arrived around 8 am. It turned out to be a very good decision. There were not many people yet, so we were able to walk around and explore freely. By the time we left around 8:30, it was already getting crowded.

Ngoc Son is a small site, with a temple and a few pavilions located on a small island in Hoàn Kiếm Lake, connected to the shore by a bright red wooden bridge. From a distance, the bridge gleamed in the morning sun, framed by the green of the tree branches. As we stepped onto it, our footsteps thudded softly on the smooth boards, and the island seemed to float toward us.

Eventually, we stopped at the most unusual part of the complex — a pavilion displaying two giant preserved turtles in large glass cases. These were real “golden” turtles that once lived in the lake.

The turtle is one of the sacred animals in Vietnamese folklore, symbolizing longevity and eternity.

Disappointment Turned Discovery: The Vietnamese Women’s Museum

We had planned to visit the National Museum of History next. However, when we arrived, we found it closed for renovations.

I stood there for a moment, deeply disappointed — I had been very much looking forward to exploring Vietnam’s history in greater depth.

But sometimes the best discoveries begin with a closed door. We continued farther down the street and decided to visit the Vietnamese Women’s Museum instead. It turned out to be an excellent alternative.

Threads of Tradition: Weddings Across Vietnam’s Ethnic Groups

At the museum, we learned that Vietnam officially recognizes 54 ethnic groups, although about 85% of the population belongs to the Viet (Kinh) group. The other 53 groups mostly live in mountainous regions and maintain their own customs, languages, clothing, and traditions.

We were especially drawn to the exhibition on wedding traditions. The costumes of the Black Thai people were particularly striking.

The bride was completely covered in a red embroidered cloth, unable to see where she was going. A small boy, her sash tied to his waist, guided her to her groom’s house.

One detail that stood out was the richly decorated “family” tent given as a wedding gift. Because Black Thai families often live together in large open-floor houses shared by several generations, this tent gave the young couple some privacy.

Seeing this display felt especially meaningful, as we had visited Black Thai villages earlier in Pu Luong and had seen those open houses ourselves.

We were surprised to learn that some ethnic groups are matriarchal. In those communities, women are the heads of families, inherit property, and after marriage the groom moves to live with the bride’s family.

Some historians believe that Vietnam itself may once have been matriarchal before centuries of Chinese influence. Under Confucianism, much of the country gradually shifted toward a male-dominated structure, though certain ethnic groups retained older traditions.

Everyday Rural Life in Vietnam

Another floor focused on everyday life in rural Vietnam — how people fish, farm, and build their homes across different regions of the country.

Valery tried his hand at traditional rice milling between two large stone wheels.

It was surprisingly difficult. The stones were heavy and stubborn, hard to set in motion. Once they finally began to turn, keeping them moving required a smooth, steady rhythm — clearly a skill honed over years.

Quiet Courage: Women Who Shaped Vietnam’s History

The final floor we visited was dedicated to the role of women in Vietnam’s long struggle for independence — first against French colonial rule and later during the war with the United States.

In the West, this conflict is known as the Vietnam War. In Vietnam, it is called the American War — which, from their perspective, makes perfect sense.

The exhibition reflected the immense pride Vietnamese people feel for their hard-won independence. I had not fully realized that this struggle stretched across nearly forty years. An entire generation was born, grew up, and reached middle age while the country remained at war. By comparison, the Second World War lasted just six years — a reminder of how prolonged Vietnam’s struggle truly was.

I was deeply moved by the stories of women who sacrificed so much. One exhibit that stayed with me was a faded diary written by a young woman who drove supply trucks along the Ho Chi Minh Trail. Without drama or heroics, she described driving hundreds of kilometers at night over rough terrain, under falling bombs. She was not only a driver, but also a mechanic and a soldier, with a rifle stored in the cabin beside her. It was a simple account, yet very powerful — a portrait of endurance and quiet courage.

When you consider how much suffering the Vietnamese people endured, their warmth toward French and American visitors today feels nothing short of extraordinary.

Walls of Sacrifice: Imperial Citadel of Thang Long

On our last day in Hanoi, we visited the Imperial Citadel of Thang Long. It was established in the 11th century, when the Đại Việt capital moved here from what is now Ninh Binh province. Although archaeological findings date back as far as the 7th century, most original structures did not survive, and the oldest standing buildings today date from the early 19th century.

We approached the citadel along a wide path lined with manicured flower beds and colorful lanterns. It was late December, and Vietnam was already slipping into the Lunar New Year spirit. The bright decorations contrasted cheerfully with the weathered stone walls, reminding us that this ancient place still lives within a modern city.

We entered through a small side gate into a paved courtyard, where fragments of ancient pavement were preserved under glass.

From there, we climbed to the top of the wall. As elsewhere in Hanoi, photo sessions in traditional costumes were underway. The wall felt crowded, yet vibrant — history serving as a backdrop for present-day activities.

We wandered through the grounds. Several exhibits helped us imagine what the citadel once looked like and traced the story of Vietnam through its royal dynasties.

Still, compared to other places we had visited, the citadel did not move me as deeply. Perhaps because so much had been lost, it required more imagination than emotion.

What stayed with me most was the story of Cửa Bắc Gate, the oldest surviving structure. Inside, a small temple honors two governors who defended the city against the French in the late 19th century.

Nguyễn Tri Phương rose from a peasant family to a high position at the imperial court through intelligence and determination. Wounded and captured by the French, he refused medical treatment, went on a hunger strike, and died in captivity.

Another defender of the gate was Hoàng Diệu. He was highly regarded by the emperor not only for his knowledge, but also for his integrity and moral strength. When French forces seized Cửa Bắc, which he was entrusted to defend, he chose to take his own life rather than surrender.

Standing there, it struck me how often Vietnam’s history returns to the same themes — loyalty, sacrifice, and resistance. Even in a place where much of the original grandeur is gone, those human stories endure.

From Monumental to Modest: Contrasts of Hanoi

From the citadel, we walked toward Ba Dinh Square. To enter, we passed through a security screening, which immediately changed the atmosphere. The space beyond felt vast and carefully controlled — broad, open, and formal, bordered by imposing government buildings. It is a place heavy with national symbolism. Standing there, I felt more awareness of its official importance than any personal connection. Perhaps it is a space meant for ceremonies rather than quiet exploration.

Nearby stands the One Pillar Pagoda, small and almost delicate by comparison.

After the monumental scale and strict order of the square, its simplicity felt unexpectedly comforting. Built to resemble a lotus blossom rising from the water, it seemed modest and serene — a quiet counterpoint to the grand political setting around it.

Practical Tips:

• Ngoc Son Temple – Entry: 50,000 VND. Best time: early morning, before 8:30 am, to avoid crowds.
• Vietnamese Women’s Museum – Entry: 40,000 VND. Audio guide: 40,000 VND, highly recommended for deeper understanding.
• Imperial Citadel of Thang Long – Entry: 100,000 VND.

Closing Reflections

Looking back, these final days in Hanoi felt like a journey through layers of identity.

Myth and legend at Ngoc Son Temple.

Everyday resilience and quiet strength at the Women’s Museum.

Loyalty and sacrifice at the citadel.

Vietnam’s history is not preserved only in ancient walls or official monuments. It lives in legends, in diaries, in family traditions, and in the pride of a people who endured generations of upheaval.

Perhaps that is what stayed with me most — not just what was lost, but what continues.