Coyoacán was our “home away from home” in Mexico City. On the city’s southern edge, its leafy streets feel worlds apart from the sprawling metropolis. It’s the city’s only borough to earn the official title of Pueblo Mágico — and once you spend time here, it’s easy to see why.
Settling into a Routine
Each morning started simply: breakfast in our little apartment, then work from 6 a.m. until 2 p.m. After closing our laptops, we headed out for lunch, trying a new spot each day — from family-owned restaurants to cozy street stalls.
Afternoons were for wandering: strolling plazas, stepping into colonial churches, or sitting on a bench to people-watch as the neighborhood carried on around us.
Several times a week we shopped at the local market. The vendors soon began to recognize us and greeting like regulars. It became fun to practice my Spanish — especially when asking for avocados “for today, tomorrow, and Friday.”
One unexpected highlight was trying fruits and vegetables we’d never seen before. Sapote negro quickly became a favorite; to my surprise, it tasted almost exactly like chocolate pudding.
Treasures Around Every Corner
Coyoacán’s historic center is full of little surprises. We arrived just a week after Día de los Muertos, and the government building on the square was still decorated with bright skulls and marigolds.
The name “Coyoacán” comes from the Nahuatl word for “place of coyotes.” Today, coyotes are everywhere — carved in fountains, peeking from statues, and hidden in murals across town.
We spent countless afternoons exploring cobblestone streets. One favorite discovery was the tiny La Conchita Church with its beautiful but weathered stone façade. At first, it looked so neglected that we assumed it was no longer in use.
Imagine our surprise one evening when we walked past and saw a wedding taking place inside, the little church glowing with candles and laughter.
Our own neighborhood, the Barrio del Niño Jesús (Borough of Baby Jesus), felt even older. Narrow, twisting streets formed a maze, and despite being in Mexico City, we woke each morning to roosters. Life here moved at a slower rhythm.
An Artistic Heart
Coyoacán is known for its creative spirit, and art really does spill onto the streets. Murals cover walls and courtyards, telling stories that are political, historical, or deeply personal.
One of our favorites was tucked inside Mesón Antigua Santa Catarina, a restaurant we loved. Every level of the building was alive with color and history.
The neighborhood also holds some of the city’s most fascinating museums. Frida Kahlo’s Casa Azul (Blue House) is, of course, the most famous — and the lines prove it. Tickets sell out days in advance.
But there are plenty of smaller, less crowded gems: the Museum of National Cultures, the Watercolor Museum, and even the house-museum of Leon Trotsky. Add in the countless sculptures sprinkled around, and it felt like living inside an open-air gallery.
One afternoon in the park we stumbled across something completely unexpected: a bullfighting practice session. Instead of a live bull, the students used a wheeled frame with horns — a “metal bull.” Watching them charge and spin in the sunlight was both surreal and strangely charming.
A Place That Stayed With Us
For four weeks, Coyoacán wasn’t just where we lived — it was where we belonged. We worked, explored, ate, laughed, and slipped into the rhythm of daily life. Even after moving on, this neighborhood remained one of our favorite parts of Mexico — a reminder of how rich slow travel can be when you truly settle into a place.
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